Art, Identity and the Fight for Trans Survival in a Hostile Political Climate.

On April 16th 2025, a troubling judgment was passed in the UK Supreme Court, redefining the legal definition of “woman” to refer solely to biological sex. This decision effectively undermines the legitimacy and rights of trans individuals. It forms part of a trifecta effect: the ruling is entrenched in prejudice and threatens the safety of trans people in single-sex spaces, even those who hold a Gender Recognition Certificate (GRC). It also reflects a broader crisis for Western society, as the UK government appears increasingly influenced by the rise of reactionary politics in the United States, especially the Trump-era Republican rhetoric that rigidly enforces a binary view of gender, recognising and protecting only two identities. 

In response to this amended definition, there has been a powerful wave of backlash. Activists have challenged the sheer prejudice at its core and highlighted the ruling’s inherent misogyny, disguised as a victory for women. Notably, the UK Supreme Court’s choice to redefine and scrutinise only the legal status of “woman”, while leaving the term “man” untouched, exposes a clear gendered double standard. Numerous protests against anti-trans rhetoric have appeared across London and other parts of the UK, condemning this insidious ruling. At the same time, positive acts of trans activism have emerged, with creatives taking on the responsibility of drawing attention to the issue and showing support, whether as part of the community or as allies. 

Conner Ives is an American fashion designer who rose to prominence after dressing model Adowa Aboah for the 2017 Met Gala. From this feat, he gained recognition from global pop star Rihanna, who hired Ives to help her create her first Fenty collection. Ives soon became a notable figure in the fashion industry, participating in the 2021 exhibition “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion”  debuting at London Fashion Week with a vision that was bold, nostalgic, and culturally rich. Ives took an unorthodox approach, embracing colour and revisiting nostalgic icons of the 2000s. He drew inspiration from his childhood pop culture references such as The Devil Wears Prada and America’s Next Top Model, infused with Y2K hits. His work adopted a tone of playful wonderment, spotlighting icons that influenced both him and the fashion word simultaneously. 

Earlier this year, Conner Ives chose to show his support for the trans community by wearing a white shirt he designed, featuring a bold statement “Protect the Dolls” (The term “dolls” is a nickname of endearment in the trans community, with roots in 1980’s ballroom culture). This was a direct response to Donald Trump’s declaration that there are only two genders, a move that led to incidents such as trans actress Hunter Shafer having her gender marker changed nonconsensually to her assigned sex at birth. Ives explained, “I’ve been so nurtured and supported by such incredible women. I wouldn’t be here right now if it weren’t for the dolls”. 

Although Ives never initially saw fashion as a vehicle for activism, he realised that shifting the political climate left no room for compartmentalisation. As he stated in an interview with Vogue, “That level of compartmentalization just didn’t feel relevant anymore”, and that he needed to share how he felt by “saying it with his chest,” which he did. 

The positive response to the shirt was unexpected. While Ives had considered quietly donating to trans charities, he did not anticipate the widespread success of his statement. The “Protect the Dolls” shirt gained further attention when celebrities began supporting the cause. Troye Sivan was first spotted wearing it on stage with Charli XCX at Coachella. Pedro Pascal went viral after being photographed wearing the shirt at Honey Dijon’s 50th birthday. Pascal wore the shirt again in April at the UK premiere of his latest Marvel feature Thunderbolts* to protest the Supreme Court’s decision. Other celebrities such as Tate McRae and Addison Rae have also been seen wearing the shirt, raising awareness and using their platforms to spotlight social justice. The “Protect the Dolls” shirt is available on Conner Ives’ website for £75.00. All proceeds are donated directly to Trans Lifeline, a US-based charity that provides life-saving support services to the trans community. 

While Ives’ shirt has gained global attention, it is important to recognise and uplift other vital acts of advocacy in the UK. Here are five organisations whose work is essential to the visibility and support of trans people:

1. The Museum of Transology, founded by E-J Scott, curates a growing collection of over 1,152 objects to preserve and celebrate trans history. Its purpose is to ensure that “never again will trans, non-binary and intersex people be hard to find in history.” The museum challenges harmful media narratives and works to prevent the criminalisation and pathologisation of trans lives. In 2023 and 2024, it expanded with fifteen new regional collections across the UK to increase geographical representation. Donations can be made through their website to support this work. 

2. Trans Creative, launched in 2017 by artistic director Kate O’Donnell, is a trans-led organisation that is based in Manchester that supports trans art in theatre, festivals, and community projects. With the tagline “telling our own stories”, the platform is celebrating its tenth anniversary with the #standbyyourtrans campaign. Solidarity shirts are available for £20 to support the cause.

3. The Queer Youth Art Collective, founded by artist Fredde Lanka and art therapist Susy Langsdale, is both an online and in-person collective for LGBTQIA+ youth artists. It began during the pandemic and now hosts regular workshops that promote expression and community support. More information can be found on their instagram page.

4. Curious Arts is a youth-focused arts charity based in Hartlepool and Newcastle Upon Tyne. It champions LGBTQIA+ artists and communities in the North East and hosts frequent events, including an upcoming show with drag king Bi Curious George on July 3rd. 

5. Queer Circle is a registered charity dedicated to creating systemic change in the arts, education, and healthcare sectors. In 2022, they opened their first physical space in North Greenwich, offering LGBTQ+ artists a place for creativity and experimentation. Their core values are centred around convening, creating, and building inclusive infrastructure.

While none of these organisations have garnered the same media attention as Conner Ives’ shirt, they are just as vital. They support and amplify trans creatives, provide safe platforms, and ensure that trans identities are not only preserved but celebrated. Trans art is defiant, necessary, and enduring.